Hiroshima – The City of Peace
On August 6th, 1945, the USA dropped an atomic bomb on Hiroshima. It became the first city to be destroyed by an atomic bomb. Everywhere you go in Hiroshima you’ll see signs that read “destroyed by the atomic bomb” and “replica”. You’d think then that it would be a depressing city to visit, and while some areas are certainly sombre, Hiroshima has a lot more to offer than its horrific past.
In fact, on this particular trip to Japan (where I also visited Fukuoka, Kitakyushu, Himeji, Kobe and Sapporo), Hiroshima was my favourite city. The city has a very pleasant atmosphere, lacking much of the modern neon lights and craziness that can be found in other major Japanese cities. It feels calmer, and the people are very welcoming. The food in Hiroshima is also amazing!
Things to do in Hiroshima
- Atomic Bomb Dome
- Peace Memorial Park
- Itsukushima (Miyajima)
- Hiroshima Castle
- Gokoku Shrine
- Shukkeien Garden
- Pokemon Centre
- Eat Okonomiyaki
- Beer Stand Shigetomi
Atomic Bomb Dome
The Atomic Bomb Dome, also known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial, is the only surviving building near the hypocentre of the atomic bomb. It was almost directly below the explosion, which allowed the structure to keep its shape and resist the force exerted on it. It was due to be demolished but instead it was preserved as a memorial of the bombing and a symbol of peace.
Standing near the dome you’ll notice how quiet it is. It’s a strange feeling being in the centre of where tens of thousands of people were killed in an instant.
It felt a bit strange to take photos of it, so I waited to see if locals were doing so. After they did, I took some myself (though I’d recommend refraining from selfies like some foreign tourists…).
Across the river from the Dome you’ll find the Peace Memorial Park, a much larger site dedicated to preserving the memory of those who died on August 6th and all those who died from the fallout in the days and years since.
Peace Memorial Park
The Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima serves the memory of the victims of the first nuclear attack in history. It is believed the atomic bomb resulted in at least 140,000 deaths, with more resulting from radiation sickness and cancer in the months and years following the attack.
The Memorial Park has numerous things to see, with memorials for different groups of people and a museum detailing the attack and the aftermath. As you can appreciate, this isn’t the place to take lots of photos, so the following photos are not very detailed.
Peace Memorial museum
The museum details the events leading up to the war and the bombing, as well as information about the bombing and the effects it had, and information about nuclear weapons and disarmament.
There are lots of pictures and memorabilia from the bombing, including the burned and tattered clothes of children, and the burn shadow of someone who was instantly incinerated on a set of stairs. It is not easy or comfortable to walk through, with lots of people crying or holding back tears.
It reminded me of the Nanjing Massacre Museum. Two horrors on opposite sides of the same war.
National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims
The Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims was built to keep a record of the victims of the bombing and store the memoirs of the survivors.
On the roof of this underground memorial hall is large clock frozen at 8:15, the time the atomic bomb went off.
Inside is the Hall of Remembrance, which has a 360 display of the city as seen from the hypocentre after the bomb went off. There is also a library and a place to register the names and photographs of the victims to preserve their memory.
Peace Memorial Park Rest House
Another building that can be visited in the Peace Memorial Park is the Rest House. This building was largely destroyed by the atomic bomb. The roof was crushed and ensuing fires destroyed the interior. Everything but the basement was destroyed, and here is where the lone survivor’s story is told.
On the morning of August 6 there were 37 people in the building. Only one, Eizo Nomura, survived. I read that his boss would normally deliver his stack of work papers in the morning, but on that day he was busy or had forgotten. Nomura was going to ask the secretary to fetch his papers from the basement, but she looked busy so he decided to go down himself. That decision ended up saving his life. He emerged from the basement into hell. He wrote about his experience and excerpts from his memoir can be read at the Rest House.
Bell of Peace
Visitors to the Peace Memorial Park are encouraged to ring the Bell of Peace. You can hear the bell ringing often in the northern section of the park.
Atomic Bomb Memorial Burial Mound
This rather depressing memorial mound contains a vault with the ashes of roughly 70,000 victims inside. These ashes are from unknown victims, either because they couldn’t be identified or because the entire family died so no one could claim the ashes.
Korean Atomic Bomb Victims Cenotaph
Everyone considers the atomic bomb a tragedy for Japan, but people of other nationalities were caught in the bombing. Notably, roughly 10% of the victims were Korean. These people have largely been forgotten by history, but many Koreans were living in Japan at the time due to its proximity and because of Japan’s colonisation of the Korean peninsula. You can visit this cenotaph to read about the Korean victims of the atomic bomb.
Children’s peace Monument
The Children’s Peace Monument was built to preserve the memory of all the children who died because of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. The statue was inspired by the death of Sadako Sasaki. She was two years old at the time of the bombing and survived, but was exposed to the radiation. She developed leukaemia 10 years later and died. Her death inspired her classmates to call for the construction of a monument for all the children that died due to the bombing. Thousands of donations flooded in to help fund this monument.
Flame of Peace
The Flame of Peace is another monument to the victims of the atomic bomb. There is a stone chamber in the centre that contains the register of deceased victims. The flame has burned continuously since it was first lit in 1964, and the aim is to keep it burning until the day when all nuclear weapons have been removed from the planet.
Itsukushima (Miyajima)
To the southwest of Hiroshima is a small island called Itsukushima, which is also known as Miyajima. This island is most famous for the massive torii gate in the sea which appears to be floating. It is also home to the Itsukushima Shrine, other temples and shrines, and wild deer.
The island can be reached by taking the train from Hiroshima to the port, then taking one of the regular ferries across to the island. There is enough to see and do (and eat!) on the island to spend an entire day here exploring.
Itsukushima Torii Gate
The Itsukushima Torii Gate is what seems to draw most people to the island. This massive red torii gate is 16.8 metres tall and stands in the sea. At high tide the gate appears to float, while at low tide you can walk out to it and stand underneath it. If you spend a whole day on the island you’ll likely be able to experience both.
You can freely access the torii gate or you can view it from the nearby Itsukushima Shrine.
Itsukushima Shrine
The Itsukushima Shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of Japan’s most popular tourist attractions. The shrine sits right on the coast so appears to extend into the sea during high tide.
You can follow the path through the bright red structure to the prayer hall and to a spot for viewing the torii gate. There was a queue here with people taking photos, but there are other spots around the shrine where you can get a view of the torii gate, or you can just head onto the beach during low tide and take photos without queueing.
Omotesando Shopping Street
Omotesando Shopping Street, while quite touristy, feels like walking through a traditional Japanese town. There are lots of traditional food and drinks to buy along this street and the surrounding streets, as well as shops to buy souvenirs.
I recommend trying some fried oysters (a specialty of Hiroshima) and a Japanese whisky at one of the bars dotted along this street.
Hokoku Shrine
Hokoku Shrine, also known as Senjokaku Pavilion, is a shrine dating back to the 1500s that overlooks Itsukushima Shrine. The shrine is believed to be unfinished, due to it lacking a proper ceiling and front entrance. The shrine feels very spacious and contains some old artwork.
Next to the shrine you’ll find the five-storied pagoda which was unfortunately undergoing repairs when I visited.
Daishoin Temple
The Daishoin Temple sits at the beginning of the trek up Mount Misen, behind the Itsukushima Shrine. This Buddhist temple is believed to have been founded in the year 806.
After climbing up the long set of stairs and seeing the Buddha statues with their red hats, you’ll reach the main courtyard of the temple where there are various buildings, artefacts and statues to see.
Daigan Temple
Another Buddhist temple on Itsukushima, Daigan Temple sits right at the exit of the island’s main shrine. This temple is worth taking a stroll through after you exit the Itsukushima Shrine, particularly to see the old entrance structure.
Momijidani Park
Behind the Itsukushima Shrine is Momijidani Park, which leads up to Mount Misen. This park is much quieter than the main temple and shrine spots on Itsukushima, allowing you to enjoy nature while visiting the small island. The park has some small shrines and bright red bridges. It’s apparently a great place to visit in autumn to see the red maple leaves.
This park leads to the ropeway up the mountain, however this is closed in winter as was the case when I visited.
Hiroshima Castle
The original Hiroshima Castle was constructed in the late 1500s, but what remained of it was largely destroyed by the atomic bomb in 1945. The main keep of the castle was rebuilt in 1958 and is now open to the public.
Inside the castle you can learn about the history if Hiroshima and see old armour and weapon sets.
From the top floor you can get a view across the city.
When I visited (mid-February) there was a large food festival within the castle grounds. They were selling a huge variety of food including the cities famous oysters. I got a massive chicken leg and some beer.
Gokoku Shrine
The Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine has changed locations over the years and, like much in the city, was destroyed by the atomic bomb. In 1965 it was rebuilt in its present location within the grounds of Hiroshima Castle.
Gokoku Shrines are built as places of worship for those who have died in war. This shrine in Hiroshima was originally built to mourn the victims of the Boshin War. A large white torii gate marks the entrance to this shrine.
Shukkeien Garden
The Hiroshima Shukkeien Garden is a peaceful garden on the banks of the Kyobashi River. This garden was originally constructed in the 1600s and has remained in the same place ever since.
The garden centres around a large pond and features a bamboo forest, a tea garden and teahouses, a herb garden, a small shrine, and cherry and plum blossoms.
A shukkeien garden means “shrunken-scenery garden”, so natural formations and scenery are supposed to be mimicked within the garden. For example, the highest point of the garden is a man-made mound that acts as a miniature Mount Fuji.
Pokemon Centre
The Hiroshima Pokemon Centre is located on the north side of Hiroshima Station. Its entrance features a red Gyarados and a Pikachu surfing on a Magikarp. The Pokemon Centre is worth visiting if you’re a fan looking to pick up any and all Pokemon merch.
Eat Okonomiyaki
Hiroshima is famous for its okonomiyaki. A local recommended I eat it while in the city. Okonomiyaki is like a noodle-egg pancake filled with cabbage, meat and seafood. However, you can decide what ingredients they put in it for you. The sauce they pour over it is delicious!
I ate in a restaurant called Smile Okonomiyaki and the food was great! This small restaurants is covered in messages left by travellers.
Beer Stand Shigetomi
Beer Stand Shigetomi is a unique beer tasting experience. This small bar that only serves beer is only open between 5pm and 7pm. To enter you queue in what is essentially a garage then enter a tiny bar.
Mr Shigetomi, wearing his signature white suit, stands behind his small bar and pours the beer. The beers apparently have different flavours depending on how they are poured, for example one pour vs three pours. There are a few different pouring techniques to try, but the rule is two drinks per person so you can’t try them all in one night.
It’s an odd place but definitely a unique experience in Hiroshima. It helps that the beer tastes good!
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