Tour of Tsushima

Ever since playing Ghost of Tsushima in 2020 I’ve wanted to visit the titular island located between South Korea and Japan. Riding over the beautiful landscapes of Tsushima or scaling one of its mountains as Jin Sakai was awe inspiring, and I wanted to experience it for myself. In the summer of 2024 I finally got a chance to visit the island when I took a day trip there.

Getting to Tsushima

The easiest and most affordable way to get to Tsushima is by ferry. Living in South Korea, I took the Starline Nina ferry from Busan to the northern port of Hitakatsu in Tsushima. You can also take the ferry to the southern port at Izuhara. Busan to Hitakatsu takes around two hours. When I travelled the sea was very rough, so bare that in mind if you get seasick. The island also has an airport but I believe this only serves national flights, so you’ll have to fly from another airport in Japan.

Things to do in tsushima

Renting a bike in Tsushima

The best way to see Tsushima is by bike. Luckily renting an electric bike on the island is cheap and convenient. I rented an electric bike from Midori Guesthouse, only a short walk from Hitakatsu port. The cost for the day was the equivalent of less than £10.

Miuda Beach

My first stop in Tsushima was Miuda Beach, with its white sands and beautiful view over the blue water. You could easily spend the day relaxing on the beach and swimming in the water, but with a lot to see and only a few hours before the return ferry I kept going. A short cycle away brings you to the Miuda Coast Observation Spot for a great view over the beach and surrounding coastline.

Battle of Tsushima Strait and the Naval Battle of the sea of japan monument

Not far from Miuda Beach is a monument to the final naval battle that took place in the Russo-Japanese war of 1905. It’s a small monument but perhaps worth checking out if you’re interested in the slightly more recent history of the island.

Gongen Mountain

If you’re up for a little bit of a challenge, you can go to the Gongenyama Observatory atop Gongen Mountain. The road up is winding and narrow, and it’s 2.4km uphill. Even with the electric bike it was quite tiring, but the view from the top was worth it.

182 coastal road

To see more of Tsushima in one day you’re going to need to cycle a bit further. I recommend following the 182 road around the northern coast of the island. It’s a quiet and safe road, and will take you through some of the coastal towns and villages where you can stop to admire the view or check out a Shinto shrine.

Observation Deck for Korean Peninsula

In 2023 I climbed Geumjeongsan in Busan on a clear day and managed to see Tsushima (the island is about 50km from South Korea). Naturally I wanted to see the reverse, Busan from Tsushima. To do this I went to the Korean Observation Deck, a large pagoda at the north of Tsushima. Unfortunately it was a little hazy over the sea so I couldn’t make out Korea, but perhaps you’ll have more luck on your visit.

Toyo Battery Ruins

Near to the Korean Observation Deck is the Toyo Battery Ruins, an abandoned fort that never saw battle. The road to this site was closed when I went, but hopefully you’ll have more luck as I believe it’s worth checking out.

Toyosaki Shrine

After cycling back to Hitakatsu my final stop was Toyosaki Shrine. This is a beautiful Shinto shrine located towards the west side of Hitakatsu. If you have time it’s worth seeing before getting back on the ferry and saying farewell to Tsushima.

I only had a few hours to explore Tsushima so I was only able to see a little part of the northernmost bit of the island. There are many interesting things to see across the whole island, so if you have more time I recommend booking a hotel and renting a car to properly explore the whole of Tsushima!

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