Nanjing – Ancient Capital of China
Nanjing, the capital of Jiangsu province, was my home in China for the best part of three years. Nanjing literally means ‘Southern Capital’ and has been the capital of China at various points throughout the country’s long history, most notably during the Ming Dynasty and more recently in the Republic of China under the Kuomintang.
Nanjing was an incredible place to live and is definitely worth visiting on a trip to China. There is a lot to see and do in this city of over nine million people. Check out my top things to do in Nanjing from the list below!
Things to do in nanjing
Niushoushan
I’m starting off my list with a little known tourist site and quite frankly an underrated one, and that is Niushoushan. This park, literally meaning Ox Head Mountain, is located in the south of the city. Luckily the mountain isn’t too high, and there are shuttle buses that can take you from the park entrance to the top of the mountain where the main attraction is, though the walk up takes you through a pleasant park.
Once you reach the top of Niushoushan you will find an abundance of Buddhist temples, statues and artefacts, the most impressive of which is Usnisa Palace. This is a huge palace with a golden roof that glimmers in the sun and is reflected in the pools that lay to either side of the entrance. Most of this palace is located underground, and upon entering you will be given shoe covers before descending six floors into the earth.
Inside you can find the Ten Thousand Buddha Corridor and the Great Usnisa Hall. This site is a sacred location for Buddhists as it features the world’s only parietal relic of Buddha – the skull of Shakyamuni.
Once you’ve taken in the magnificence of the palace, head over to the Foding Pagoda and climb to the top for an aerial view of the palace and surrounding park. Also check out the older Hongjue Pagoda nearby.
Niushoushan should definitely be at the top of your list of things to see when in Nanjing!
Nanjing Eye bridge
This is one of my favourite tourist spots in Nanjing, perhaps because it’s the very first one I visited when I lived there. This is a pedestrian bridge that opened in 2014 for the Youth Olympic Games which were held in Nanjing. It crosses the Jiajiang River, which breaks off from and later re-joins the Yangtze River.
You can get a great view of this part of the city from the bridge, and the two large loops to walk through provide unique photo opportunities. The unique structure of the Jumeirah Nanjing Hotel in the background also adds to the photos.
Crossing the bridge will bring you to the Youth Olympic Forest Park which is a nice area to walk around or stop for a picnic.
The bridge is worth visiting during the day and at night for different photos, as the bridge lights up and cycles through different colours at night.
Purple Mountain (Zijin Mountain)
For the best views of Nanjing I recommend climbing Purple Mountain, so called because at dawn and dusk the clouds around the peak often appear purple. The mountain is relatively small and only takes around an hour to climb. There’s also a cable cart that can take you up and down.
The mountain has two main viewing platforms, one providing a view west across the city, and the other providing a more northerly view.
The mountain is great to climb at any time of day, but sunset is particularly dramatic especially as the viewing platform is facing the correct direction.
If you need a break while on the mountain there is also (surprisingly) a KFC at the top!
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen’s Mausoleum
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen’s Mausoleum is found on Purple Mountain and is considered one of the top tourist sites in the city. This is the burial site of Sun Yat-Sen, the founder of the Republic of China and considered the “Father of Modern China” in both China and Taiwan. He fought against the last imperial government of China, the Qing empire, ending the Chinese monarchy in 1911.
To reach the mausoleum you must climb the 50m wide stairway of 392 stairs. At the top you will reach the blue roofed mausoleum containing Sun Yat-Sen’s tomb and one of the few Kuomintang flags you can see in mainland China.
Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum
Also on Purple Mountain is the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, the burial site of the Hongwu Emperor, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty. He made Nanjing the capital of China during his reign.
Before reaching the main building of the Mausoleum, you will pass through a garden featuring many other buildings, gates and statues. I think the best part of this area is “Elephant Road” which features stone animals on either side.
In my opinion this mausoleum is best visited in the rain as it gives all the buildings and statues a cinematic look.
Linggu Pagoda
Located on Purple Mountain is the Linggu Pagoda. This pagoda bears the same name as the nearby temple, though is not connected with it. You can climb the nine stories of the pagoda for a view of the forest that covers Purple Mountain. Ascending the tower in autumn will reward you with the red, orange and yellow leaves of the season.
Qixia Mountain
If you visit Nanjing in autumn, then Qixia Mountain is a must visit. During the autumnal months the trees on this relatively small mountain turn a vibrant shade of red. Qixia is located in the north east of Nanjing.
There are various historical and Buddhist sites located in the mountain park, including Qixia Temple and the Dongfeitian Grottos.
Check out this mountain in late October or early November for the best autumn colours!
Xuanwu lake
Xuanwu Lake is located quite centrally in Nanjing. The south and west sides are surrounded by the Nanjing City Wall, of whose gates provide access to the park. The north and east sides are more open. In the lake there are five islands connected by bridges, and on these you will find temples, pagodas, cafes, restaurants and even a small amusement park. You can hire a pedal boat to explore the lake, or just enjoy walking around the park. During the dragon boat festival you can watch one of the boat races on the lake.
Jiming Temple
Jiming Temple is one of the oldest and most famous Buddhist temples in Nanjing. It is located just to the south of Xuanwu Lake. When I visited this temple there were always many people burning incense and saying prayers. It also had a famed vegetarian restaurant, though I never got to try it myself.
Nanjing City Wall
The Nanjing City Wall was the longest city wall in the world when it was constructed by the Ming Dynasty in the 14th century. Walking along it provides amazing views of the city, and looking at the bricks you can still see the signatures left by some of the people who built it. I recommend starting the walk near Jiming Temple and going along to Sanzang Pagoda, though it’s also worth starting at the Gate of China and getting a combined gate and wall ticket.
Gate of China
The Gate of China, or Zhonghua Gate, in Nanjing is the southern city gate and is the city gate with the most complex structure in the world. Inside the structure there is a small museum detailing the history of the gate and the city wall. You can also start walking around the city wall from this gate, where you will get a good view of the Porcelain Tower of Nanjing.
Nanjing Massacre Museum
On the 13th of December 1937, Japan captured Nanjing. Over the next month they killed around 300,000 people, raped over 20,000 women, and looted and burned the city. Children, babies, and pregnant women were killed. Many war crimes were committed, and Japan still denies the extent of the massacre.
If you are visiting Nanjing, then I highly recommend visiting this museum to learn about this atrocity. Many of the exhibits are disturbing to see, particularly one part where you can walk through an excavated grave, close to the site where 10,000 people were killed and put in a mass grave.
Many people outside of China have no knowledge of this massacre, yet to the people of Nanjing the wound is still raw. The people of Nanjing are very aware of the history of their city, and as a visitor it’s important to not just see the exciting tourist parts but also learn about what happened here.
The museum also features a changing exhibit. When I visited in 2019 there was an exhibition of peace posters.
Confucius Temple, Fuzimiao and Qinhuai River
Confucius Temple (also known as Fuzimiao, though the whole area is generally referred to as that now) is located on the banks of the Qinhuai River. Here you can visit the Confucian Temple, take a cruise up the Qinhuai River, and explore the many tourist shops and restaurants in this popular pedestrian shopping street.
I recommend visiting at night when the area really comes alive, particularly during the lantern festival period following the Chinese New Year. The area is filled with colourful lantern displays that light up the night.
Laomendong
Like the Fuzimiao area, Laomendong is another historic district that has become a pedestrian shopping street. It is located south of Fuzimiao and is close to the Gate of China and city walls. It is a little smaller than the Fuzimiao area but still has lots of tourist orientated shops and restaurants.
Porcelain Tower
Like many historical sites in China, the Porcelain Tower was destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion and has more recently been reconstructed. The reconstructed tower now stands in the centre of a museum, detailing the history of the tower (originally called the Great Bao’en Temple) and Buddhism in Nanjing. You can climb the tower for a good view over the surrounding city.
Zifeng Tower
Zifeng Tower is the tallest building in Nanjing at 450 metres. To reach the free viewing platform you must first take the escalator down to the basement level where you can then ride the elevator to the top. At the top you can get the best view of the city, though don’t go on a smoggy day or you won’t see much.
Mochou Lake
Mochou Lake is overshadowed by the larger and more famous Xuanwu Lake, but is still worth visiting if you have the time in Nanjing. This smaller lake is named after Mochou, a legendary lady famed for her beauty. The lake and surrounding gardens feature a statue of Mochou. There are also pavilions, pools and a rock display to see around the lake.
Yangtze River (Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge)
The Yangtze River is the third longest river in the world and passes through Nanjing before continuing on to meet the East China Sea at Shanghai. There are many spots where you can enjoy the river in Nanjing, but I recommend starting where the Qinhuai River meets the Yangtze at Hongyun Bridge. From here you can walk north along riverside paths and through parks till you reach the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge, a double-decked road-rail bridge across the river.
Yuejiang Tower (Lion Hill)
Yuejiang Tower is situated on Lion Hill close to the Yangtze River. This site marks the spot where the Hongwu Emperor defeated a force five times larger than his own in 1360, laying the foundations for his reign as the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty. The tower was never built in his lifetime even though he ordered its construction. In fact, the tower was not built until 2001, though it was made in the style of the Ming Dynasty.
Presidential Palace
The Presidential Palace of Nanjing housed the Office of the President of the Republic of China from 1927 until 1949. Here you can learn about the history of the Republic of China from the time of its establishment through to its move to Taiwan after the CCP seized power.
Ming palace
The Ming Palace was the imperial palace during the early Ming Dynasty. Much of the original buildings have been destroyed, and what’s left are mostly reconstructions. Though there isn’t much to see here, it’s worth stopping in if you’re passing.
Zheng he treasure ship park
Zheng He was a Chinese admiral and likely the most famous. He served as commander of Nanjing and led seven treasure voyages across Asia. The Treasure Ship Park in Nanjing details his voyages and features a replica of one of his ships. Unfortunately access to the ship was closed off when I visited, though it may reopen in the future.
Yuhuatai Martyrs Memorial Hall
The Yuhuatai Martyrs Memorial Hall is located in a large park and honours members of the Chinese Communist Party who were killed during the Chinese Civil War, as well as soldiers killed during the Sino-Japanese War. There perhaps isn’t a lot for foreigners here, but if you are interested in the history of the Chinese Communist Party it may be worth checking out.
Olympics Sports Centre
If you have lots of time in Nanjing, the Olympics Sports Centre is a nice park to walk or cycle around. At night the building is lit up, while the buildings opposite display a light show.
Behind the sports centre you can see the Jiangsu Grand Theatre and the Jinling Library. This whole area is pleasant to walk around and has some great architecture. There are also cafes and bars located between the sports centre and the theatre.
Garden Expo Park
To the east of Nanjing is the Jiangsu Garden Expo Park, a large park set in an old mining quarry. The main part of the park is the different gardens from the cities in Jiangsu province. I think the Nanjing garden is the best with its pagoda, but I might be biased. Some of the gardens have restaurants specialising in cuisine from their cities. The park also has a botanic garden and some fancy hotels if you’d like to spend the night in this area.
Wuxiangshan
If you have longer to spend in Nanjing you might consider travelling to Wuxiangshan, a mountain forest park in the southern Lishui district. This area is about 80km away and a two hour trip on the metro, but is still considered part of Nanjing. The mountain is not very high but features a temple and statues dotted around the path, leading to a small lake at the top and views north back to Nanjing. Being quite far out of the city, the park is fairly quiet and peaceful.
Gaochun District
Another spot far out of the city but still considered part of Nanjing is Gaochun district. This area south of the city is also about 80km away and a two hour trip on the metro. The last leg of the metro journey crosses a roughly 13km bridge over Shijiu Lake. When I went it was a little hazy, so the coastline disappeared and it was like taking a train over the sea.
Gaochun district features an old town. It’s essentially one street that has many tourist shops selling souvenirs and food. Walking to the end of it will bring you to Gucheng Bay which is like a hotel resort park. Inside are gardens, shops, restaurants and even a little zoo.
Gaochun district is worth visiting if you’re staying in Nanjing for longer and have the time to make the long journey south.
Shopping
Living in Nanjing it felt like I could hardly walk 100 metres before bumping into another mall. There are shopping malls everywhere in the city, and new ones always seemed to be popping up. Chinese malls are something else and all have unique features like water or light shows, or interesting architecture. Many of the malls have lots of restaurants, food courts and cinemas. Some even have ice rinks. I’m not going to list every single mall in Nanjing, but I will highlight a few.
The first is Deji Plaza, one of the largest malls in Nanjing located in Xinjiekou. This mall has a lot of luxury brand stores, an art exhibit, and even had a store with a flying car when I was there. Deji Plaza is also famed for its fancy toilets.
The second mall is Golden Eagle (GE) City in Jianye District. This mall is located in one of the tallest buildings in Nanjing which displays a light show every night. The basement level has many cheap dining options, while the upper levels have more fine dining options and a cinema. The shops here are perhaps a little more affordable than those at Deiji Plaza.
The last one I’ll recommend is the Pengxin Aqua City mall, not far from the Fuzimiao area. This mall has an open air layout and lives up to its name. You can enjoy a 10 minute water and light show while shopping here.
